The Road of the Week: Trollstigen, Norway’s most dramatic switchbacks
Road of the week is our way of celebrating a single stretch of tarmac that can justify a whole journey. This time, the spotlight is on Trollstigen (the Troll Road), a short but intense climb in Western Norway where every hairpin feels engineered for riders. If you’re planning a Trollstigen roadtrip, think of it as a sequence: the fjords first, then the altitude, then the descent—each with its own rhythm, weather, and traffic patterns. Done well, it’s not “just a viewpoint”: it’s a half-day of real riding, with a full day’s worth of scenery and stops.
Ørnevegen / Trollstigen: deep in Norway’s fjords
Trollstigen sits in Rauma, in the county of Møre og Romsdal, linking Åndalsnes and Valldal. It’s part of the classic Western Norway loop, and it pairs naturally with the approach from Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO-protected area that concentrates some of the country’s most iconic fjord landscapes.
Opened on 31 July 1936 by King Haakon VII after eight years of construction, Trollstigen wasn’t built as a tourist trophy at first—it was a vital connection. Until new tunnels were built in 1975, it was the only road link serving Valldal.
Why this road matters (beyond the hype)
For centuries, a steep mule track beside the foaming Stigfossen waterfall was the only passage between the fjord communities of Sunnmøre and Romsdal. Today, that old line has become a hiking trail—best suited to confident walkers, especially if you’re sensitive to exposure.
On the road itself, the landscape does the heavy lifting: abrupt peaks, deep-cut valleys, fertile pockets of farmland, and constant water—fjords below, waterfalls above. Above the switchbacks, the mountains named Kongen (the King), Dronningen (the Queen) and Bispen (the Bishop) dominate the horizon like markers on a compass.
The ride: 11 hairpins, a 9% grade, and a tight mountain road
Trollstigen is famous for its 11 hairpin bends on a steep slope (around 9%). The climb reaches 858 meters above sea level and remains one of Norway’s most visited scenic roads.
Even after being widened, it’s still a narrow mountain road with tight radii and oncoming traffic that can feel close—especially when tour buses arrive in waves. A key rule to know: vehicles longer than 12.4 meters are not allowed.
At the top, a parking area gives access to viewpoints over the full snake of the road and the Stigfossen waterfall (320 meters high). It’s one of those rare places where stopping is not optional: the viewpoint explains the scale your body can’t read while riding.
Ørnevegen (Eagle Road): the steep prelude
Ørnevegen (“Eagle Road”) is the abrupt section climbing from Geiranger to Eidsdal, reaching about 630 meters above the fjord. From the cornice, you catch a clean panorama over Geiranger, the Geirangerfjord, the Syv Søstrene (Seven Sisters) waterfall and the Knivsflå mountain farm.
A simple route plan (so it flows on the day)
The classic sequence described by most riders is straightforward:
- Start near Geiranger and climb via Ørnevegen / Ørnesvingen for the last big fjord view.
- After roughly 20 km, take the Eidsdal–Linge ferry (a shuttle crossing).
- Continue through high-mountain scenery for about 40 km, then begin the descent into Trollstigen’s switchbacks.
From major cities, the approach is long enough to justify a night stop: about 6 hours driving from Oslo, or 4 hours from Trondheim via Dovrefjell to Dombås, then down Romsdalen to Åndalsnes. If you prefer rail for the approach, Åndalsnes is a practical station to anchor the ride day.
Season, closures, and a 2026-relevant way to plan it
Trollstigen is typically closed in autumn and winter due to snow. For a Trollstigen roadtrip, build your plan around a summer window and keep your schedule flexible by at least half a day: mountain weather and traffic density can change the feel of the road completely.
Professional Planet Ride pacing tip: don’t stack Trollstigen on the same day as a long transfer. Treat it like a “quality stage”: ride it when you’re fresh, stop at the top viewpoint, then keep your next lodging within a reasonable distance so you’re not riding tired on narrow roads late in the day.
If you’re timing your stops, note that the Troll Road Museum traditionally opens from late June to 10 August—a small detail, but it helps decide whether you stop for a quick look or keep rolling while the light is at its best.
Mini‑FAQ (practical, rider-focused)
When is the best season for a Trollstigen roadtrip?
Summer is the safest bet because the road is closed in the snowy season. Aim for the period when mountain passes are reliably open and days are long.
Is Trollstigen suitable for large vehicles?
It’s a tight road with sharp bends. Vehicles longer than 12.4 meters are prohibited, and even smaller vans should expect slow sections when traffic builds.
How much time should I plan on site?
Even though the road itself is short, plan a half day once you add viewpoint stops, ferry timing (if you’re looping via Eidsdal–Linge), and the natural slow pace on hairpins.
https://www.planet-ride.com/fr_FR/voyage-autotour/norvege/articles/route-trolls-norvege-plus-belle-route-semaine/
