Story Time with Uralistan: Chasing the “Highest Pass in the World” in India

Road trip inde can mean many things: chaotic cities, hypnotic plains, or the sudden silence of altitude. For Jérémy and Marion—two riders based in Laos and already known to Planet Ride readers for their long-haul sidecar project—this chapter was about one obsession: reaching a legendary Himalayan pass during a short, intense loop from Srinagar to Manali. Ten days, shifting weather, river crossings fed by melting snow, and a motorcycle that had to be “listened to” as the air thinned. Here’s their story, told in their own words.

“It was on our to-do list for years.”

How did the idea for this trip come to you?

Jérémy & Marion: The original plan was to include this section in our bigger journey—linking Asia to Europe with our Ural sidecar. At first we were supposed to do Laos–France via India, but administrative issues and budget constraints forced us to change the route.

We still really wanted to go to Ladakh, and riding up to the highest pass in the world was high on our list. When we finally had a window to travel to India, we didn’t hesitate.

10 days between Srinagar and Manali

What was your itinerary for this roadtrip?

Jérémy & Marion: We started in Srinagar (north-west India) and finished in Manali, on the Ladakh side. It took us 10 days to connect the two, averaging about 150 km per day. In total we rode somewhere between 1,200 and 1,500 km.

The highlight was the crazy diversity of landscapes—changing completely from one day to the next. One day it felt like green, Irish-style countryside; the next we were on Alpine-looking mountain roads; and then suddenly it turned into a huge desert. It was unreal.

5,400 meters: when riders and machines slow down

You must have ridden very high. Did altitude affect you?

Jérémy & Marion: At the highest point we were around 5,400 meters, and yes—you feel it, and so does the bike. We had to use a carbureted model that needs occasional adjustment; otherwise it just won’t pull properly up there.

The first 3–4 days were at “normal” altitude. When we started climbing for real, we took a full day off the bike so our bodies could adapt. Even with that acclimatization day, at 5,000 meters you have to watch every effort. I felt nauseous and light-headed, but it eased as soon as we dropped back down. It’s really the top section where it hits.

Planet Ride pro tip: In high altitude road trip inde routes, plan your days by time, not distance. 150 km can become a long day when traffic jams, landslides, and water crossings stack up—and fatigue is a bigger risk than speed.

Landslides, meltwater, and a 90 cm margin

Did you run into trouble on the way?

Jérémy & Marion: On the very first riding day there was a landslide on a track, and a truck was parked in a corner—blocking everything. The only way through was a tiny strip on the cliff side. We had maybe 90 cm to squeeze the bike between a heavy truck and the drop.

We were riding at the end of the snow season. Glaciers were melting and streams were running right across the road. That caused traffic jams, and instead of ice you had constant meltwater pouring through—sometimes with surprisingly strong current. A few times Marion had to cross on foot first, in 0°C water up to her knees, to check depth and line.

The most intense memory is the final climb to the “highest pass.” It had been closed for four hours due to rockfalls, so we were stuck in a traffic jam above 5,000 meters. At one point I tried to slip past a car through what looked like a shallow ford—it wasn’t. I dropped the bike into snowmelt. At that altitude, you don’t need a thermometer to know how cold it is.

Road or dirt? A real mix—until weather decides

Was the route mostly paved road or off-road?

Jérémy & Marion: One of the best things was the variety. We’d do half-days on good paved roads, then a few hours on mountain tracks. Overall, about two-thirds of the trip was on-road, and the remaining third was on dirt.

With 150 km/day, did the dirt sections slow you down?

Jérémy & Marion: Some parts were more rideable than others, but the biggest delays were weather and road conditions. These are mountain roads that aren’t maintained—if there’s a landslide, you wait for bulldozers. It happened to us a few times.

We also didn’t want to rush. We’d leave around 8:00 and arrive around 17:00. Our biggest day was probably 10 or 11 hours on the bike.

“Technically okay. Physically, it’s another game.”

You’re an experienced rider—did you find it difficult?

Jérémy & Marion: The first off-road section was steep and tight, and you could tell nobody knew what to expect. A few riders crashed there. I ride rough tracks in Laos, so I managed fine.

Overall the route was fairly rideable and not full of traps, but we were two-up, which always makes things more demanding. Some parts were technical—you had to commit and hang on—but the main challenge was fatigue: riding 8 hours a day at altitude takes a lot out of you. It’s exactly the kind of adventure we love.

À savoir aujourd’hui

What remains true is the rhythm: altitude, landslides, and meltwater can turn “short” stages into long, exhausting days. What you should verify before leaving is seasonal access, temporary closures, and current permit requirements on your exact route—conditions can change fast in the Himalayas.