The Red Bird’s Adventures: Buenos Aires to Mendoza (Part 3)
Primary intent of the original: Interview / portrait.
From the endless straight lines of the Pampas to the first switchbacks of the Andes, this chapter of a roadtrip across Argentina is about distance, temperature swings, and those encounters you never plan. Leaving Buenos Aires at dawn, our rider heads west with a simple target: cross the Pampas, reach Santa Rosa, push on toward Neuquén—and keep rolling until the landscape finally folds into mountains. Along the way: dinosaur footprints near Villa El Chocón, the deep blues around Bariloche, sand sections on the legendary Ruta 40, and Mendoza’s Malbec culture under the watch of condors. If you’re planning a voyage moto in South America, this is the kind of stage that teaches rhythm, fuel discipline, and humility.
“After Buenos Aires, where did you continue your journey in Latin America?”
With the bike packed and the straps checked one last time, I leave Buenos Aires in the early morning cool. The day’s goal is straightforward on paper: cross the immense Pampas to Santa Rosa, then keep going toward Neuquén.
The Pampas can look monotonous from a map, but on the ground it keeps changing: stretches of flowers, pockets of wildlife, then suddenly a more arid, almost desert feel. It’s never truly empty. I rode for days on that ruler-straight ribbon of asphalt, a meditative experience—eyes scanning the horizon, mind settling into the cadence of a long-haul stage.
“Tell us an anecdote that marked this stage of your South America roadtrip.”
In Villa El Chocón (Neuquén Province), near a lake with a milky-blue color, I saw six dinosaur footprints—remarkably preserved. It hit me like a detonation: in a second my imagination was full of giant creatures, and I got back on the bike with a strange feeling of time stretching.
Not long after, the first outlines of the Andes appear far ahead. The road begins to rise onto high plateaus; the first real bends bring back the sheer joy of riding after so much straight-line work. The landscapes turn spectacular, and I stop more than once, helmet off, just staring.
During my motorcycle trip in South America, one thing became obvious in this part of Argentina: fuel stations can be sparse. A comfortable range is strongly recommended. My small V-Strom has that advantage: around 500 km per 17-liter tank, which takes stress out of the longest gaps. At the time, gas was about €1 per liter.
The weather can also swing hard in a single day: I experienced shifts from 40°C down to 9°C with altitude. You learn quickly to layer properly and to keep warm gloves accessible—not buried at the bottom of a dry bag.
“Tell us about Bariloche.”
Arriving in Bariloche, with its immense lake and chocolate shops, oddly reminded me of Switzerland. The region is a patchwork: velvety-blue water, forested slopes, and peaks that keep changing color with the light. I even saw a sign in the woods warning that wild pumas live in the area—enough to make you pay attention if you’re camping outside town.
From Bariloche I take the mythical Ruta 40 north toward Mendoza. Some sections turn into long sandy stretches where proper tires matter; without decent knobs, you work twice as hard and fatigue comes fast. The scenery stays varied and enchanting, and I pass through areas where the Chiquillanes people are said to live quietly in the isolated Andean foothills.
“Did you meet anyone during this South America motorcycle journey?”
In the middle of one of those deserts, I met three Argentine riders. I nicknamed them the road angels because they appeared out of nowhere—no town, no traffic, just dust and horizon… and suddenly three bikes.
We rode together to Mendoza, sharing water reserves and even taking a track that didn’t exist on any map we had. A real adventure—the kind that reminds you why you travel by motorcycle in the first place.
“How would you describe Mendoza?”
Mendoza feels welcoming: a beautiful provincial city with tree-lined streets where wine is at the center of conversations. There are plenty of bodegas to taste Malbec, and the Andes sit behind everything like a painted backdrop—reds, greens, blues, golds. I don’t know an equivalent in Europe.
Then, on a bend in the mountains, a massive condor crosses the sky—sovereign, silent—and disappears in seconds. That moment stays with you.
I continue my voyage moto in South America. Aconcagua (6,960 m), the highest peak in the Americas, stands there—visible from Route 7. In a high Andean valley, a red dirt track—an old route once used by the Incas—leads to the Christ the Redeemer of Argentina, above 3,800 m. Crossing into Chile is smooth, and the Andean traverse continues for 200+ km toward the Pacific.
On the descent through the hairpins, I overtake trucks with overheated brakes. Down in the valleys, the vegetation changes again: tall cactus, drier slopes, intense heat. On the hillsides, rows of tamarugal vines hint at Chile’s wine culture—another reminder that the road always ties landscapes to people.
“What was your next stop in Latin America?”
Valparaíso—literally “Valley of Paradise”—reached by a beautifully paved road that leads straight to the blue of the Pacific. Entering the city feels like stepping into another dimension: hillside elevators, wide views from above, and houses painted in a thousand colors overlooking the port.
At night, ships answer each other with foghorns in an eerie maritime symphony. The lit-up houses look like a constellation laid across the hill. And my South America roadtrip continues—more curves, more Cordillera, and the promise of Salta la bella ahead.
2026 travel updates (practical, no fluff)
- Offline navigation: in the Pampas and on remote stretches of Ruta 40, plan for weak signal. Download offline maps before leaving major cities and carry a backup power source.
- Fuel discipline: even with a long range, avoid “I’ll refuel later.” Top up whenever you see a station outside the main towns; opening hours can be limited in small settlements.
- Layering beats gear changes: temperature swings with altitude are real—keep a windproof layer and warmer gloves accessible on the bike, not in luggage.
- Tires for mixed surfaces: if your route includes sandy tracks, choose a tire setup that won’t punish you for hours; sand turns small mistakes into big fatigue.
Planet Ride pro tip (one that saves your day)
On long, straight stages like the Pampas, don’t let “easy road” trick you. Break the day into short blocks (ride, hydrate, quick check, repeat). It keeps attention sharp and reduces the end-of-day crash that causes mistakes in the last 30 minutes.
Mini-FAQ
- Do I need a special license for a motorcycle roadtrip in Argentina and Chile?
In practice, riders typically travel with a valid motorcycle license from their home country plus the required international/translated documents depending on nationality—check your exact entry requirements before departure. - What’s the best season for Ruta 40 toward Mendoza?
Shoulder seasons are often preferred for balance, but mountain passes and high-altitude sections can change fast—verify conditions if you plan to cross the Andes. - Is fuel really scarce between towns?
It can be, especially outside major corridors. Plan range conservatively and refuel whenever possible in remote areas.