Interview / rider story. In September 2014, Laurent set off on a Harley-Davidson roadtrip across the American West. Four friends, two couples, two rented Electra Glides, and a route sketched on a giant map until a familiar comic-book dog silhouette appeared. The trip got a name: Milou aux USA (the page has since disappeared). Then the numbers followed: 27 consecutive days on the road, a 9,300 km loop starting and ending in Los Angeles. Big parks, long horizons, and the kind of fatigue that feels earned.
First stage: building the road book
Laurent: “I wanted to organize the trip myself. I’m the persistent ‘digging’ type. Preparing the road book—well, with a buddy—made me travel for six months before the departure.”
He had already tasted Arizona on a shorter 12-day loop around Native American lands. This time the plan was wider, higher, farther: more north, more east, and more miles every day.
Laurent: “What I missed, maybe, was an expert who looks at your road book and says: ‘if you pass there, don’t miss that—it’s unreal, and it would be a shame to ride past.’”
The backbone of their roadtrip across the West ran through: Yosemite, Lake Tahoe, Salt Lake City, Yellowstone, Devils Tower, Mount Rushmore & Custer State Park, the Colorado Rockies, Frisco, Durango, Monument Valley, Arches, Canyonlands, Goosenecks, Kanab, Boulder City, Kingman, Palm Springs… and back to Los Angeles.
US roads that stay under your skin
Laurent: “One ride still hits me hard emotionally: the Trail of the Ancients, climbing the Moki Dugway—3 miles of dirt.”
On a light adventure bike, it might be “just” another gravel section. On a Harley-Davidson Electra, two-up, with luggage and a full tank, it turns into a commitment.
Laurent: “It climbs steep. You can’t even really see the road, and you can’t stop. My fear—beyond a fall—was stalling. But the emotion turned that nightmare stretch into a great memory.”
Planet Ride note: to dive into the story of America’s most mythic ribbon of asphalt, read: the history of Route 66.
Pro tip from the Planet Ride team
If your roadtrip includes long mileage days, keep the rhythm realistic: on US highways you can cover distance, but the best days are often those capped early enough to arrive with daylight, refuel calmly, and reset your body. On big tourers, fatigue creeps in through wind, heat, and constant attention—not only through hours.
San Francisco: the adrenaline of steep streets
Laurent: “Another strong memory—San Francisco, 2010. Still two-up, heading toward the famous Lombard Street.”
He follows a car up a brutally steep hill—he calls it 30% grade—and reaches the top where a stop sign offers almost no flat space to settle the bike.
Laurent: “I had to stay on the slope. Leaning forward, both brakes locked… and the bike starts sliding backward. I yelled to my wife: ‘Get off! Jump off! I can’t hold it—we’re going to slide 200 meters and destroy the rental.’”
The car ahead moved, Laurent abused the clutch “like never before,” and the Harley finally clawed its way onto the flat at the intersection. The lesson, he says, is simple: cities can be harder than deserts—especially when you’re loaded, two-up, and on a heavy touring bike.
Motorcycles: a magnet for people
Laurent: “The best part of a motorcycle roadtrip is the landscapes, of course. But even more: the people you meet. The bike is a real vector of curiosity and connection.”
At the time of this account, he talks about future projects—historic French routes, South Africa, Europe—and a dream that keeps coming back: Argentina’s Route 40.
Plan your own motorcycle trip through the American West
Laurent’s account describes his independently organised trip. The current Planet Ride tours below follow different itineraries and do not reproduce his 27-day loop.
- For Yellowstone and the Rockies: explore our Yellowstone and northern national parks motorcycle tour.
- For the American West: discover our Pearls of the Great West motorcycle tour.
Compare the programmes and discuss the pace, motorcycle and support you need with our experts before requesting a quote.
Mini-FAQ (USA Harley roadtrip)
How many days do you need for a big loop in the American West?
Laurent’s benchmark is clear: 27 days for a 9,300 km loop from Los Angeles. If you want more “park time” and fewer long stints, plan extra days rather than compressing.
Is a heavy touring bike okay on dirt sections like Moki Dugway?
Laurent’s experience is not a general recommendation. Ask a specialist to review your route and current conditions, and confirm with the rental company that the planned roads are permitted with your chosen motorcycle. Choose a route suited to the bike, its load and your experience.
What’s the biggest risk on a long roadtrip: speed or fatigue?
Often fatigue. Cadence your days, hydrate, and don’t underestimate wind and heat. The safest riders are usually the ones who arrive early enough to recover.
What to check before travelling today
This story is rooted in a 2010–2014 experience, and what remains timeless is the scale of the West, the pull of the road, and the reality of riding heavy bikes two-up. Before departure, verify access conditions for specific roads and parks, and confirm rental terms, insurance coverage, and local restrictions that may evolve.